Der Beitrag Vulcanier-Ohren erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

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I wanted to make a mask that was easy to apply and where I could move my face. So I decided to split the makeup into 8 parts: A wig, a bald head (because the forehead piece extends past my hairline), a forehead piece, two jaw pieces, a chin, and two removable antennae for easy transport.

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Ich begann damit, meinen Lifecast mit Alcote zu bedecken. Das hilft, die einzelnen Teile des Abgusses für das Abformen zu erhalten. Ich begann die Maske mit Monster Makers‘ Monster Clay Medium zu modellieren. Die Basis für die Antennen war ein 3D-Druck, den ich noch hatte. Hier kann man einige Punkte sehen, an denen ich die Maske in die verschiedenen Teile schneiden wollte.

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After covering all the necessary areas with Monster Clay, I added primary shapes - these are the shapes that form the shape of the skull.

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Then I added more details in the form of secondary shapes. I used several reference photos from Discovery and even some from Strange New World's Hemmer because I wanted to a) give the mask my own fingerprint and b) add details that Discovery's creators didn't use (like veins and a more angular, bony look).

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I had to be very careful when modeling the jawline and chin, knowing that I would have to make cuts for the individual pieces here to ensure that these pieces would fit back together later.

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Then it was time for the first cut (and the first cut is always the deepest...). I took off the antennas so I could cast them separately in epoxy.

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I decided against casting them in foam latex because I wanted them to be as strong and light as possible. So I decided to use epoxy resin. After casting, each antenna weighs less than 20 grams. If you want to see how I molded them, I made a video on my Instagram. Have a look!

Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of me cutting the chin and jawline into pieces. Anyway, when I did, the entire lifecast had to be placed in a bucket of water. This loosened the alcote and the monster clay came off, ready for custom mold making. Here I am molding the piece of the forehead.

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So this is what it looked like after molding. I made the jaw and chin as flat shapes, and the forehead is a basket shape. I also wanted to put gloves on, so you can see the hands. But I didn't have time for that in the end.

So, that's my equipment for the foam latex cooking process.I bought an oven because foam latex oozes ammonia, so you can't do it in an oven you use for food.I also bought a heavy-duty blender and Monster Makers' foam latex kit, which included everything I needed to cast the prosthetics (latex, foaming agent, gelling agent, mold release agent).

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I can't stress this enough: Foam latex is a princess. The ambient temperature and humidity have a huge impact on the outcome of the mask. So I had to make several passes before I had my first decent puff.

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I also had to figure out how to get the oven to maintain the right temperature, and I had to figure out how long to cook the latex.This was really tricky. So if you want to make your own masks, don't just rely on the instructions that come with your foam latex.

Dies war einer meiner ersten Versuche.Man kann sehen, dass der Schaumstoff den „Stöpsel“ für die Antennen nicht ausfüllt.Außerdem gibt es etwas, das man „Laking“ nennt, d. h. Stellen, an denen unerwünschter Luftdruck dünnere Stellen im Latex hinterlassen hat.

I used several techniques to paint it.My first recommendation is acrylic paints.I love that you can use them with an airbrush. I mixed a base shade that was identical to my alcohol activated makeup instead of the other way around.

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For the base, I mixed acrylic ink in FlexiPaint clear.FlexiPaint is a paint for latex so it doesn't get brittle when the mask moves and the paint sticks.

To achieve a vibrant, skin-like look, I used different types of paint and techniques.First, I mixed acrylic paints with ProsAide skin glue. This gives an opaque and flexible color that is perfect for larger areas. Of this, I dabbed on a dark blue and a light blue layer with a sponge.Then, I mixed a very light blue and a rather dark blue and used a toothbrush to spray tiny dots on the masks to make them look like blood vessels.After that, I used acrylic ink to add the shading.

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Then came the hardest part: applying the makeup. I started with the bald cap. Using ProsAide, I glued the prosthetics to my face, continued with the forehead, and glued in the antennae. Then the jawline was glued on. The chin was made to cover the front lines of the jawline, so this was the last part. I used ProsAide Cream to cover some of the thicker transitions. Then I used alcohol-activated ProAiir Solid and Eulenspiegel Aqua Makeup to fill in the pink areas of skin between the dentures. Some details like a blue eyeliner were added.

All in all, I was quite pleased with the mask. Was it worth all the hassle, money, and tantrums?I would say yes.I had a lot of fun learning all the techniques and creating the mask. Let's see what next year brings.

Der Beitrag Making of: Andorianer-Maske erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

What Is Acrylic Paint?

Acrylfarbe ist eine Farbe auf Wasserbasis, die aus Pigmenten, Bindemitteln und Wasser besteht. Sie trocknet schnell und bildet eine wasserfeste Schicht auf der Oberfläche, auf die Du sie aufträgst. Acrylfarben gibt es in vielen verschiedenen Farbtönen und Texturen, und Du kannst sie auf nahezu jeder Oberfläche auftragen, einschließlich Leinwand, Papier, Holz und Metall.

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What Is Acrylic Ink?

Acrylic ink is similar to acrylic paint, but contains less binder and more pigment. It is usually sold in bottles or pens and can be applied directly to a surface. Acrylic ink dries quickly and forms a thin layer on the surface you apply it to. It's ideal for fine lines, shading and detail, and you can also use it on transparent surfaces like glass or plastic.

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Why Is Acrylic Ink Better than Acrylic Paint for Airbrushing?

There are several reasons why acrylic ink is a better choice than acrylic paint, especially when used as airbrush paint:

1. Thinner: Acrylic ink is thinner than acrylic paint, which means it fits better in airbrush equipment. It requires less to no thinner, which saves time and money.
2. Higher Opacity: Acrylic ink has better opacity than acrylic paint, which means you need to apply fewer coats to get even coverage.
3. It dries fast: Acrylic ink dries faster than acrylic paint, which means you can finish your work faster. It also doesn't run when you apply multiple coats.
4. Brighter colours: Acrylic ink contains more pigments than acrylic paint, which results in more vibrant and bold colours. It's ideal for airbrush artwork that needs to stand out.

My Opinion on Acrylic Ink and Acrylic Paint When Airbrushing:

When it comes to airbrushing and whether acrylic paint or acrylic ink is better for it, there is one clear answer: acrylic ink. It is thinner, has better opacity, dries faster and offers more vibrant colours. Acrylic ink is also more versatile and can be applied to almost any surface, including transparent surfaces like glass or plastic. So if you're looking for a creative outlet with good and fast results, acrylic ink is the best choice.

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A few interesting links to finish with:

• Have You Discovered the VIP of Acrylics?
• A Guide to Inks

Der Beitrag Acrylfarbe versus Acryltinte für Airbrush erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

I've been dreaming about trying foam latex for quite some time. I have already tested silicone, latex and gelatine. But foam latex is, how shall I put it?, the classic. That's why I'm all the more eager to try it.

I hear that foam latex is not very easy to work with and probably not very forgiving. That's why I'm a bit excited and I'm really happy that I can try it out now. To make it less difficult, I decided to make a forehead for a Klingon-human hybrid. Then at least the modeling is not so difficult.

Over the weekend I sat down and drew a few design ideas. I have B'Elanna Torres in mind for a hybrid. She is clearly Klingon, but not so extreme. Take a look at the short video I made of it.

Oh, and keep your fingers crossed that everything works out. For the upcoming Destination Trek I want to improve my Andorian mask and make it out of foam latex, after last year's silicone version was rather mediocre.

Der Beitrag Neues Projekt: Klingonenstirn aus Schaumlatex erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

Der Beitrag Quick-Video: Making of Spider-Bär erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

So, yes, I have tried a few materials for modeling. From clay to plasticine to plaster and silicone, there are a variety of options to create the perfect model or sculpture. But ever since I tried modeling with Monster Clay Medium, I've been completely in love with it.

Why Monster Clay is an Ideal Medium for Sculpting.

One of the main reasons I love modeling with Monster Clay is its versatility. Although it is primarily used as a modeling clay, it is also a great option for creating prosthetics and masks. Plus, it can be combined with other materials like silicone or plaster to add extra detail or create unique effects. By the way, I'm also making my current project, the Klingon Forehead, with Monster Clay. Have a look!

Advantages of Monster Clay Medium

First of all, there is its malleability. The clay is easy to knead and shape once it's warm, allowing me to fully explore my creativity. It is also very easy to carve and draw, which allows me to add fine details and shape my sculpture to the desired form.

Another great feature of Monster Clay is the ability to change the consistency by heating it. By heating the wax, I can get a softer or harder consistency depending on what I need at the time. This allows me to better match the material to my needs and achieve the perfect consistency for my work.

Last but not least, I love that Monster Clay has a long working time. As long as it's warm, it's malleable. And just body heat is enough to make it moveable again. Unlike some other materials, it also stays malleable for a very long time, so I have plenty of time to finish my sculpture or model, even if I don't feel like crafting for a few days.

Monster Clay Is Sulfur-free

Another advantage of Monster Clay is that it is sulfur-free. This makes it ideal for use around sensitive materials like silicones and latex. After all, platinum silicone hates sulfur, and latex sometimes reacts quite piqued to it as well.

Kurz: Monster Clay ist ein äußerst vielseitiges und formbares Material zum Modellieren, das mir viel Platz für Kreativität und Gestaltung bietet. Ob für die Erstellung von Prosthetik, Masken oder Skulpturen, Monster Clay ist eine großartige Wahl für jeden Künstler und Modellierer.

Share Your Experience

Have you had any experiences with Monster Clay? Do you have a favorite kind? Or do you think other modeling clays are better? Let me know in the comments or drop me a message.

Related Links:

• Official Monster Makers website: https://monstermakers.com/monster-clay
• Monster Makers on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MonsterMakersUS
• Monster Clay on Facebook: https://facebook.com/MonsterClayUSA
• Monster Makers auf Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/monsterclaysculptors/

Der Beitrag Monster Clay – Warum ich diesen wachsartigen Allrounder liebe erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

#FerengiFashion #TribbleSalesman #StarTrek #Cosplay #blender #3Dprint #attention2detail

Der Beitrag Ferengi-inspirierter Tribble-Verkäufer erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

Der Beitrag Star Trek Tasche erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

So, I sat down once and wrote down a few project ideas for the upcoming months. Since it's not sure if I'm going to a convention this year, I have time to spare ...

I think I can't live without project ideas. I always have to have the possibility to do something (or not, if I'm too lazy ...).

That's why I made a to-do list for the projects of the next months.

• Klingon forehead made of foam latex:
  At the end of last year, I got everything I needed to make foam latex prosthetics. Meanwhile, it's all been sitting around for three months and my fingers are itching to make it happen now. A Klingon forehead is a good start, because the actual production is not that complicated and I can concentrate on the foam latex.
• Cosplay "Nymph"
  With the good Rabenschwarzes I plan to do a cosplay and shoot on the theme of a nymph. This should include prosthetics and probably horns in addition to the costume. There are already a few plans running through my head, but it all needs to be thought through in peace.

• Vulkanischer Mantel:
  Ich bin ziemlich begeistert von den Kostümen in Star Trek: Discovery. Vor allem die vulkanische „Mode“ gefällt mir sehr gut. Deshalb möchte ich einen Mantel in Richtung der Kleidung von Spock und Sarek nähen. Ein grundlegendes Schnittmuster verstaubt schon seit einiger Zeit in der Schublade – direkt neben dem Stoff, den ich dafür schon gekauft habe – und es wird also Zeit, da mal ranzugehen.
• Schaumlatex-Maske „Andorianer“
  Die Andorianer-Maske ist wohl sowas wie mein Herzensprojekt. Früher konnte ich die Andorianer nicht leiden, aber mit Star Trek: Discovery haben sie ein großartiges neues Makeup-bekommen. Ich habe bereits eine Maske aus Latex und eine aus Silikon gemacht, aber so richtig überzeugt haben mich beide noch nicht. Also bleibe ich dran und verbessere sie immer weiter. Diesmal mit Schaumlatex.
• Silikonprosthetik „Romulaner“.
  Ich möchte meine Fähigkeiten in Bezug aus verkapseltes Silikon verbessern. Eine Romulaner-Stirn ist dafür ideal, da sie nicht sehr aufwändig ist und ich mich aufs Wesentliche konzentrieren kann.
• 3D model head
  I already have a more or less good life cast of my head including the shoulders. It works well, but I'm sure it could be better. I've been reading up a bit on photogrammetry and found a Galaxy app that can do it. So I'd like to give that a try and then have it 3-D printed.

So, where do I start? Do you have any ideas? Write them down in the comments or use the form. What would you like to see? Would you like to start a joint project?

Foto „To-do-Liste“ von Freestocks.org auf StockSnap

Der Beitrag Ohje, eine To-Do-Liste erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.

A plotter combined with Heat Transfer Vinyl is a great way to create custom designs on garments and other textiles. It can be used to cut out precise outlines and patterns, while Heat Transfer Vinyl offers a wide range of colors and textures. In keeping with the Man in the Moon, of course, I'm using white HTV on a dark blue cotton T-shirt

What's a plotter?

A plotter is a device that can cut out contours and patterns from a variety of materials using computer-controlled cutting heads. The plotter is most popular for creating advertising signage and custom designs on clothing and other textiles. Most plotters use software that allows the user to accurately place the design and select the material for cutting. And the best part: These things also come in household-grade. Just like the one I have.

What does a plotter do?

A plotter offers numerous advantages for creating custom designs:

• Precise contours: A plotter cuts out the material with high precision, resulting in sharp contours and a professional appearance. This really benefits me in particular as an old scissors dyslexic.
• Versatility: Plotters can cut a variety of materials, including vinyl, paper, cardstock, fabric and more. I'm still trying all of that out. Because I haven't had the plotter that long.
• Repeatability: Once a design is created, it can be reproduced at any time. And again. And again. And again ....

Heat Transfer Vinyl

Sounds complicated, but it's actually something quite simple: Heat Transfer Vinyl is a material that is cut out with a plotter and then ironed onto textiles. Basically, it's a thin plastic film coated on one side with hot glue. It comes in many colors and textures, including glossy, matte, metallic, and glitter. But let's not talk out loud about the last option.

• Flexibility: The material is very flexible and can be applied to a wide range of textiles.
• Durability: Once applied, Heat Transfer Vinyl stays on the textile for a long time and is machine washable. According to the manufacturer, mine can withstand about 50 washes. I haven't washed my T-shirts that many times, but I have the impression that this might be true.
• Creativity: The material can be used in many different designs and colors to achieve an individual look.

So, voilà ... here's a short video to show you how I do it.

Accessories: plotter, white HTV, heat press and mini press. And a great vector file from the moon.

Der Beitrag Mein erster Blog-Eintrag erschien zuerst auf Mann vom Mond.